Layer Order Survival Guide: What Goes On First (and Why)

The number one question we get from new users: in what order do these products go on? Here's the rule that covers ninety percent of cases, and the small set of exceptions.

The thinness rule

With one important exception (sunscreen, see below), apply products from thinnest to thickest. Water-based first, oil- based second, occlusive last. The reason is physical, not mystical: a thicker product creates a barrier that water-based molecules can't penetrate. Put your moisturiser on first and your essence on second, and the essence is mostly sitting on top of the moisturiser doing nothing.

Morning routine, simplified

• Cleanser (or just water rinse if you cleansed at night)
• Vitamin C serum (water-based, antioxidant — wants to be first)
• Hyaluronic acid or hydrating toner (still water-based)
• Moisturiser (lipid-rich, seals everything underneath)
• Sunscreen (always last, no exceptions, see below)

Evening routine, simplified

• Cleanser (double cleanse if you wore SPF or makeup)
• Active treatment — retinoid OR exfoliating acid, not both the same night
• Optional: a hydrating layer to buffer if the active is harsh
• Moisturiser

The sunscreen exception, explained

Sunscreen always goes last. Always. Two reasons. First, it forms a uniform film designed to filter UV — anything you apply on top of it (including makeup) breaks that film unevenly. Second, modern UV filters are formulated to sit on the skin's surface, not penetrate; mixing them under actives changes how they distribute and can reduce protection.

What about products that don't fit the rule?

Some thicker creams contain water-soluble actives (a peptide serum in a balm-like base, for example). Manufacturers usually solve this by dissolving the active in a carrier that delivers through the cream regardless of position. When in doubt, follow the order the brand recommends on the package — they tested their own formula in their own order.